
When your myenergi Eddi is installed, it diverts spare solar energy to heat your hot water cylinder, so it can be hard to know who to blame when the water goes cold. The good news is that the Eddi is quite communicative, and with a few simple checks you can usually work out within minutes whether the fault lies with the Eddi unit itself or with the immersion heater inside the cylinder. The immersion heater is the electric element that sits inside the hot water tank and heats the water, in the same way a kettle element does.
Cool or cold water is worth sorting out promptly, and the checks below are quick to run. Work through the three steps in order - each one narrows down the cause a little further.
The Eddi's screen tells you exactly what it thinks is happening at any given moment. Before doing anything else, look at what it's showing and match it to one of the situations below.
The Eddi believes it is sending power to your immersion heater. If that message has been showing for over an hour and the water is still cold, the Eddi is doing its job - the problem is further down the line, at the heater itself. Move to Step 2 to confirm the Eddi's relay is working, then proceed to Step 3 to inspect the immersion heater.
The Eddi has stopped sending power because it is reading the immersion heater as already hot. If the water is lukewarm or cold when you run the tap, the heater's thermostat is often the reason - it is calling "hot" before the tank actually is. Go to Step 3 to inspect the immersion heater and thermostat.
If you see an error code on the Eddi screen, the likely fault is internal to the Eddi unit itself. Note the exact code shown and go straight to "What to do next" - you do not need to work through the remaining steps.
Check that the Eddi has power at the fuse board. If the fuse board looks fine but the unit remains blank, the Eddi itself needs to be looked at. Go to "What to do next" to contact PureVolt Solar.
First, rule out the weather. On a run of dull days, or on a day when the house is using most of what the panels generate, the Eddi may simply have nothing spare to divert, and the water will stay cold with nothing actually wrong. The test below settles the question either way.
The Eddi normally only diverts surplus solar energy - so on a cloudy day, it may not be sending much at all. A Manual Boost ignores that rule entirely and forces the Eddi to draw power from the grid for a set period. This is the most reliable way to test whether the Eddi's internal relay is working. A relay is simply an electrically operated switch inside the unit.
What the result tells you:
The Eddi's relays are working. The fault is almost certainly with the heating element inside the immersion heater, or with its thermostat. The element is the part that actually gets hot, and the thermostat is the part that decides when the water is hot enough. Continue to Step 3: Inspect the immersion heater.
The Eddi is not responding correctly to a manual command. This points to a configuration or relay issue within the Eddi unit. Go to "What to do next" to contact PureVolt Solar.
If the Eddi heats the cylinder perfectly during a Manual Boost but never does so on its own, the hardware is fine. The cause is almost always the Eddi's clock or its timer schedule, which decides when the unit is allowed to heat. Work through these four checks:
If the water is still not heating after all four checks, get in touch with us.
If the Eddi's display and boost test suggest the unit is working, the next place to look is the heating element inside the cylinder. There are two common causes of failure.
Most immersion heaters include a high-temperature safety cut-out. If the cylinder ever overheated, this switch may have tripped - and it will not reset itself. That makes it a common reason for no hot water, and one worth knowing about when you speak to a technician.
Do not open the immersion heater head yourself to reset this button. The head contains live electrical terminals, so this is a job for a qualified electrician or plumber. Mention the thermal cut-out when you contact them, so they know to check it.
In areas with hard water, mineral scale builds up on the heating element over time and can eventually cause it to fail completely. A burned-out element will draw no power at all. If the Eddi shows it is sending energy but your electricity meter is not moving as you would expect, a failed element is likely. This requires a replacement element to be fitted by a qualified electrician or plumber. See "What to do next" for links to find a registered tradesperson.
Use this table to match what you are seeing to the most likely cause.
| What the Eddi is showing | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Screen is blank or unit is unresponsive | Eddi unit (power or internal fault) - contact PureVolt Solar |
| Error code displayed (e.g. "Relay Fault", "Output Short") | Eddi unit (internal fault) - contact PureVolt Solar |
| "Diverting" or "Boosting" but water stays cold | Immersion heater element or thermostat - go to Step 3 |
| "Max Temp Reached" but water is lukewarm | Immersion thermostat - the Eddi is reading the heater as hot before the tank is. Go to Step 3 |
| "Waiting for Surplus" even during a Manual Boost | Eddi configuration or relay fault - contact PureVolt Solar |
| Heats during a Manual Boost but never on its own | Eddi clock or boost timer schedule - check the four checks in Step 2 |
If the steps above point to a problem with the Eddi unit itself - such as an error code, a blank screen, or failure to send power during a Manual Boost - and PureVolt Solar installed your Eddi, please get in touch with us. We will work with you to arrange the appropriate fix.
Contact PureVolt Solar with a note of what the Eddi screen is showing and what you observed during the boost test. The more detail you can give us, the faster we can help.
The immersion heater and hot water cylinder are plumbing and electrical components that sit outside the scope of your solar installation. If the fault is with the element, thermostat, or thermal cut-out, you will need a qualified technician to carry out the repair.
The following resources may help you find the right person:
Search the RECI register for a qualified electrician near you.
Search for a registered plumber qualified to work on hot water cylinders.
Get in touch with your installation team at PureVolt.ie if you're still stuck. Let us know what you've tried so far and we'll take it from there.
You might also find these guides useful:
If you need to check your heater's thermostat settings or understand the element spec, the table below links directly to the installation documentation for the most common immersion heater brands found in Irish homes. Find your make in the left column, then use the link in the right column to access the relevant manual or resource.
| Make | Common models | Manual / resource |
|---|---|---|
| Elemex (Sanbra Fyffe) | BID27ER1, BID24ER1, Economiser | Elemex product brochure (PDF) |
| Tesla UK | TIH505, TIH650 (Incoloy), Titanium series | Standard installation manual (PDF) · Megaflo/Aquatherm instructions (PDF) |
| Redring (Glen Dimplex) | P27DC (Popular), A11DC (Aqualoy) | Redring manuals and guides hub |
| Backer Electric (Heatrod) | BAC327C, 80014ATS | Heatrod domestic fitting instructions |
| Heatrae Sadia (Megaflo) | 95606984 (factory fitted elements) | Megaflo HE installation manual (PDF) |
| Cotherm (thermostats) | TSR00014 (TSR series), TSE00187 (TSE series) | Cotherm TSR technical spec |
| Santon (Heatrae Sadia Group) | MY311, PremierPlus series | PremierPlus installation manual (PDF) |
| Kingspan / Albion | IMHTR2301, SU007 | Kingspan cylinder and heater manual (PDF) |
| Thermowatt | RTS 3, RTS Plus, TS9 | Thermowatt RTS technical data |
| Willis (external heaters) | Willis External "Bottle" Heater | Willis external heater overview |